If you happen to get to high camp during a spell of high pressure when the snow is firm and shortly after someone has put a boot track up the route you should be able to cruise the route camp to camp in. In recent years this route has involved belayed climbing on very hard ice, so we now only guide it at a maximum 2. Aconcagua 2020 climbing the polish glacier direct route. Software for windows polish translation software lingvosoft. Below is a list of the equipment and gear that is needed for climbing aconcagua. Aconcagua 21day ascent via the polish direct route. By choosing to view the website and downloading material, you are agreeing to be bound by the terms and conditions of this website and agree to be responsible for. Climb the highest mountain of america via the lonesome and spectacular polish glacier route. Climbing aconcagua guided expedition with american. So we have decided to do the direct polish glacier route. If you want to keep operating the software installation, you may purchase the license to continue operating the software and qualify for future for updates. Unlike the other two routes, this route requires ice climbing, ice axes and short roping. Most climbers fly into santiago chile or mendoza argentina and take a bus to puente del inca for the normal route or to penitentes for the polish glacier, polish traverse and vacas routes. On the polish glacier traverse route other than the polish glacier direct route, while you climb aconcagua, you can encounter one section of hard snow and a deadly slope of a few hundred feet, at 30 degrees angle, where you can come across to the crampons.
For you, this means faster results since we can apply our expertise for your profit. An introduction to aconcaguas 360 route awexpeditions. The main challenges on the normal route are altitude and weather. In their research they found that many who intended to summit via the polish direct. Summit of south america rucksack pocket summits 1 by harry kikstra isbn. Two months ago we were climbing the polish direct route on aconcagua in flash style, only 8 days from home. The steeper polish glacier direct route has been the choice route in recent years. The polish glacier route is for more experienced climbers. It should not be confused with the polish glacier route however, as the direct glacier route is a serious high altitude climb that involves considerable technical climbing sections. These are the normal route, the polish traverse route and the polish glacier route. The gear above is required for the polish direct route in addition to the technical gear listed for the normal route. The ppc experts have sheer expertise in industries like travel, education, b2b and b2c, health, online shops, software promotion and a number of servicesbased industries. Jan 03, 20 a private and unsupported expedition to the summit of aconcagua, 6. The polish direct is a totally conditions dependent route.
The aconcagua polish glacier direct route ascends across the glacier and it. The entire price of a ticket for a direct return flight purchased on includes the cost of the flight, taxes, airport fees and other additional payments like fuel surcharges. He is a fellow of the society of actuaries, a member of the american society of pension actuaries, and an enrolled actuary. All of them work together regardless of brand, because theyre all based on the common zwave standard. With extreme serac avalanche danger in the lower section, a curved gully the hockey stick that crosses prime snow slab terrain, and constant spindrift avalanches in the upper portion of the route, this route is not for everyone.
We can also provide extra premium tech support for all your devices. Only 14 days to the highest mountain of america and one of the seven summits. The red line marks the new russian direct eleven climbers led by pavel shabalin, 2007. The polish glacier routes to aconcaguas summit are a more serious undertaking than the normal route.
I mostly post my rock climbing and big wall trip reports on this site. The german name matterhorn is named for mattertal and zermatt historically matt alpine meadow, the prefix zeris a preposition in the schalbetter map, printed by sebastian munster in 1545, the valley is labelled mattertal, but the mountain has the latin name mons silvius and the german name augstalberg, augstal being the german name of aosta valley from augusta praetoria salassorum. Ackon cahuac is stone sentinel in the native quechua tongue. We werent able to reach our bus driver on our satellite phone to arrange to be. The day my team changed route is the day a climber fell and was killed on the glacier. On this spectacular, steep snow and ice climb we will use several running belays. Exclusively via the polish glacier route and with preacclimatization. If you are planning on doing the polish glacier direct route know this. We will ascend the polish route from the east and descend via the normal route to the west. I decided i wanted to have a go at the polish direct route. You should be capable of ascending 3,500 feet with a pack of 40 pounds in. It brings together our most popular and useful applications in a single, convenient collection.
Aconcagua is very high, and the mountain can be extremely windy and cold. Tadeusz piotrowski september 19, 1939 july 10, 1986 was a polish mountaineer and author of several books related to the subject. The definitive guidebook to climbing aconcagua in south america. In the first nine months of 2015, 240 new direct routes dcts were implemented across fabec airspace. However, aconcagua is not the most difficult mountain. Dcts implemented in fabec airspace from january to september 2015. Adam and david will be climbing the normal route small wonder, since both of them have never been called normal. The program linked to below was not followed 100% exactly. A nice climb, better take this route than normal route, but mopre and more people get there. The third main route is the polish glacier route that is more challenging, going straight through the east side of the mountain all the way to the summit. Climb aconcagua alpine ascents international aconcagua. We climb aconcagua across the vacas valley up to plaza argentina base camp, then we follow the polish glacier traverse route, after that the hike switches to the normal route on the last camp, from where we reach the summit.
The main difference is an another descent from the summit of aconcagua instead of regular polish traverse descent climbers use a descent of the the normal route. Revised 072907 these zip files each contain two adobe acrobat pdf files with the ea2 exam and solutions. Simply download and install the software for a fully functional software evaluation free for 30 days. Here is the exhaustive list of equipment ill bring for the aconcagua climbing attempt thru the direct polish route in 2012. We came down the next morning and my wife got frostbite on one of her big toes. Aconcagua mount aconcagua climbing and trekking guided expeditions with services, logistic, meals, mules and porters in mendoza, argentina.
Here we start our acclimatization process and attempt a technical route on one of the 5k meter peaks in. Lingvosoft learners suite is the best english polish learning software for windows. Poland is an important transit area for traffic between several other european countries, including germany and russia. Lingvosoft learners suite 2019 english polish for windows lingvosoft learners suite is the complete language learning solution available only from lingvosoft. Short impression of our climb via the direct polish route. Because less than 15% of the climbers come this way, it will be a more solitary ascent.
Contact our sales department for license activation or product quotation. On the polish glacier there are three routes, the standard polish glacier route ascending the easternmost edge of the glacier, the variation that winds through the crevasses and seracs in the middle of the glacier and the direct route which ascends a straight line up the western side of the glacier between the seracs in the middle and the rocks on the west side. For more information regarding the routes, please click here. There are three main routes on aconcagua that one can use to reach the roof of the americas. The youngest person to reach the summit of aconcagua was jordan romero of big bear lake, california. There are variations of these routes, however, these are often far more technically difficult and usually only attempted by experienced mountaineers. South face the polish route if you are not afraid of avalanches, this is the route. Privacy statement of furtenbach adventures gmbh furtenbach. There are over 3000 interoperable zwave products throughout the world, and over 94 million zwave products have been sold since our beginnings in 2001.
It is the highest mountain in south america at 22,834 and one of the 7 summits. Pants doesnt have much to do with the route but what i mean is that it could be cold, especially if we get stuck somehow. This privacy statement concerns all persons, which use the services of furtenbach adventures gmbh. I recently attempted the direct route on aconcagua. He has been referred to as perhaps the finest winter mountaineer of his day. This technical glacial route is of a different nature than any of the above routes.
Translation for route in the free english polish dictionary and many other polish translations. I will be attempting something other than the normal route, which will involve some additional challenges. The general rule is to get the better item based on weight and flexibility ideally an item can be used for multiple purposes like the verto 26, whippet, or. This is a shorter and more direct route with porter support to carry group gear private porter support also available. The route takes a direct path up the east side of the mountain over the famous polish glacier. Dec 19, 2015 k2s west face, with the polishslovakian teams proposed line marked in red. The american team will attempt a route to its right out of sight, then cross the ridge to finish on the upper west face. If conditions are not good for the polish direct then the false polish or even normal route will still be nice ways to spend my time there. You should train for at least four months before attempting to scale aconcagua six months if you are well and truly outofshape. Mt aconcagua, polish glacier sortedfiled as aconcagua, polish. Tr aconcagua polish direct 152010 the rest of the us. Cerro aconcagua 22841 ft 6962 m polish glacier direct date. Aconcagua may not get the respect from the climbing community.
The aconcagua polish glacier direct expedition is offered as a private or custom trip up the polish glacier route on aconcagua. At 6962m, aconcagua is the highest peak outside the himalayas and is accessible to both trekkers and mountaineers. This was my intended route, but partially due to the advice harry gave about heeding the conditions of the climb, i chose to go for the polish traverse. On the direct polish glacier route, called the polish direct, we tackle significantly exposed 45degree ice climbing on the upper glacier. Click here for all the information you need for a successful summit. This route is not to be confused with the false traverse, or the false polish. Aconcagua polish glacier that time we actually did some. At a minimum my ice axe bd raven pro and some steel crampons will be coming along so thats some significant weight.
The polish direct is a worldclass route that many plan for and few actually do once they see it. Aconcagua 2020 polish direct route update alpenglow. And since i am always looking for a nice challenge, i decided to not climb the normal route. Aconcagua direct a rewarding 21 day trip with a leader in exploratory expeditions. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders. Climbing aconcagua over the direct polish glacier route is not only a great experience, but also the perfect preparation for mt. With our tried and true acclimatization program youll be able to attempt the famous aconcagua polish glacier in tiptop condition for the best chance of a. The climb follows the polish traverse to camp 2 at the base of the polish glacier. Oct 19, 2015 fabec free route network improves european connectivity 19 october 2015. Aconcagua expenditions and mountain guides aconcagua expedition guides and mountain climbing outfitters. The polish glacier route to aconcagua is a more technical way to summit this great mountain this polish glacier route allows you to enjoy a more wild and remote area. You will specifically have to prepare yourself for the altitude and the load you will bear. Sep 11, 2012 aconcagua polish direct gps track needed by leobzm sun nov 11, 2012 10.
This paper surveys various aspects of the road system in poland. For most of our team this was a last training climb or refresher before this years everest. We left the hotel in mendoza with our grajales driver, mauricio a. Fabec free route network improves european connectivity canso. To prevent the possibility of personal injury or product damage caused by battery exposure to extreme heat, store the device out of direct sunlight. This trip is competitively priced and includes acclimation days as well as a wellappointed base camp, so less moves and carries then vacas valley, coupled with less time on the higher mountain camps. He was 11 years old when he reached the summit on december 30, 2007. Route info there are three major routes to the summit of aconcagua the normal route, the false polish route and polish direct route. Our intended route was the polish glacier on the northeast flank.
To make a very long story short we had terrible conditions on the route and ended having to bivy on the summit. But the glacier was in very bad state and dangerous around the piedra bandera. Aconcagua flash polish direct furtenbach adventures. Climbing the polish glacier direct route on aconcagua in january of 2020 though, we have a single climber in a 1. This polish glacier route allows you to enjoy a more wild and remote area. This route is harder than normal polish 4050 whereas 2030 for normal but more secure for us. How to climb aconcagua the best route to climb aconcagua. There are two variants the polish glacier direct route and traverse route. Rope is not fixed on the normal traverse route or polish direct. Oct 30, 2005 the first death i saw was a fall on the polish direct. You see, polish passports already are machine readable and biometric. The price may be subject to change, depending on the date of purchase and currency fluctuations.
Due to the nature and composition of this expedition, ganesh adventures is only offering the polish glacier direct climb to teams of 4 or smaller requiring guiding and logistics services of the highest quality. Translation for en route in the free englishpolish dictionary and many other polish translations. Polish traverse, aconcagua 6 962 m 22 831 ft description. I asked around back in november for suggestions on where to go and ended up choosing the obvious. I climbed aconcagua vacas route falso polaco january 25th 1993. Everest due to the similar terrain and the fixed ropes, installed on both mountains.
Get more with the full protection of internet security. I got by with just standard frontnip to the nose and toe tips. The polish glacier direct route the direct is a technical route with sections of 5560 degree ice climbing on the north side of aconcagua. Also, this way up is appreciated for its beauty and technical difficulty. We are hereby informing you of the type, extent and purpose of the capture and use of your personal data by our company. Next season im planning on climbing aconcagua from a nonnormal route maybe polish glacier direct, or the southwest ridge. Aconcagua polish glacier direct route complete guide. Climb aconcagua polish glacier route with benegas brothers.
Aconcagua polish glacier route aconcagua expeditions. Because thats the part the lady hacked off with scissors on my old passport. With fellow climbers niels weijsenfeld en henk kruse. Aconcagua is located in argentina near the border with chile. The normal route on the mountain is nontechnical and is a. Now includes an advanced layer of ransomware protection. Furthermore, one climbs a summit over 6500m, which is a future requirement for the everestpermit. Thinking about where to go, last spring i saw brad marshalls post here on looking for teammates for a 20062007 expedition. Join aagm certified mountain guide juan for this once in a lifetime opportunity to climb the highest peak in the americas, the imperious and beautiful aconcagua in mendoza.
At 22,834 feet, aconcagua is the highest mountain on the south american continent. The route i hope to climb is called the polish glacier direct. Free antivirus download for pc avg virus protection software. There is a forth route that only experienced climbers should use it, the polish direct route. To climb it safely you need to be solid with crampons, ice tools, running belays and basic crevasse rescue techniques. The polish traverse, or the false polish glacier route, is a stunning option for trekkers looking to get into high altitude climbing. The climber, justin, is training to attempt mt everest. The polish direct route heads straight up to the polish glacier and is only climbed a couple of times each season. Although steeper, it is safer and easier due to fewer icy and exposed traverses than on the old polish route. It is a more direct ascent with shorter distances and times between. Also i will choose between a steeper direct route safer due to fewer ice traverses or the old route, not so.
In our last post, we talked about the team of justin and topo on their aconcagua rapid ascent, taking on the polish direct route. Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the americas at 6,962 m 22,841 ft. The polish glacier route to aconcagua is a more technical way to summit this great mountain. Summit day ascends the glacier itself to join the summit ridge then descend by the normal route. The guys had a final good night of rest in base camp, and in the morning they finalized all packing and sent a few loads of camp gear up the mountains with porters. We will work with you to design the program that best suits your needs. Aconcaguas polish glacier descends from the summit diagonally right. Ive spent a significant time researching these items.
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